|
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The Novjote
(initiation) ceremony of the author in Summer of 1950 at the
Jehangir Rajkotwalla Baugh on Victoria Road in Karachi. The
ceremony was officiated by the community priest, Ervard
Dinshawji Bhada. Standing Left to Right are: Shahrokh's
father, Minochehr, sister Avi, Shahrokh, mother Sheroo, and
aunt Piroja |
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1961 - Family photo at a
Parsi wedding reception in Karachi |
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1948 - Karachi BVS Parsi
School: Mohammad Ali Jinnah, the founder of Pakistan,
followed by his sister Fatima and other officials being
received by members of Parsi community and the BVS
Highschool founder's family. Mohammad Jinnah marriage to
Ratti, a Parsi girl from Bombay did not endure long, and she
never moved to Pakistan. Jinnah's sister acted as the first
lady of Pakistan. |
|
Seated in the middle is
Begum Liaquat Ali Khan, wife of the first Prime Minister of
Pakistan, meeting with the Who's is Who of the Karachi Parsi/Zarathushti
Women's Organization (Banu Madal) in 1956 |
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Karachi Darbe-Mehr
(Zoroastrian temple and community center) - 1962 |
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Karachi 1968 - The BVS Parsi
school. |
|
|
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Karachi 1959, (three images
above) |
All of
us have stories of our childhood. My story is set against the
backdrop of the final years of British rule in India, the division of
the Indian subcontinent into two sovereign nations, and the emergence of
a new Muslim country – Pakistan. To fully understand my story, it is
important to understand the history of Karachi, the story of its
citizens including the small Parsi/Zarathushti community, and the subtle
adjustments as well as dramatic transformations that were experienced by
the residents of this growing metropolis and the nationals of the new
Pakistan.
Karachi, The Capital of the New Nation of Pakistan:
It
was on the 14th day of August in the year 1947 that the port city of
Karachi, my city of birth, which had once been a clean, quiet, and
laid-back city of some 450,000 citizens, suddenly became the designated
capital of the newly carved-out nation of Pakistan. The creation of this
new homeland for Muslims was a dream-come true for many freedom lovers
and freedom fighters. As the largest city of this emerging nation,
Karachi hurriedly became a make-shift city, ready to welcome and
accommodate millions of Muslim refugees by land and sea. In a short
period of 10 years following the creation of Pakistan, the population of
the city of Karachi increased five-fold to 2.5 million. Today, almost
sixty years later, Karachi has an estimated population of 14+ million
people and continues to grow.
My personal story begins in Karachi as a
young Parsi/Zarathushti boy, eight years prior to Karachi becoming the
capital of Pakistan and ends some 17 years later, with my permanent
departure in 1965. During the first decade and a half of the new
Pakistan, I witnessed many celebrations and mourning, riots and strikes,
civil disobedience and violent
demonstrations, stability and chaos, shortages of water and
electricity, the creation of new suburbs, poor quality construction
throughout the city, all during these formative years as its people
struggled to have an identity, create a Pakistani society, and build a
new nation. The new Islamic Republic-in-making lacked a national
roadmap, inherited measly coffers, faced widespread corruption,
experienced untested political will, and displayed minuscule expertise
in governorship and legislation. The basic British infrastructure
remained intact however the legislative implementation was absent or
inconsistent.
I
remember watching the extraordinary events in the months and days
preceding that turbulent day in August 1947 from the five balconies of
my second-story home on Bunder Road (later changed to M.A. Jinnah Road)
in the heart of the city of Karachi. I saw the mass exodus of Hindus
with minimal possessions leaving their homes and neighborhoods, the
constant turmoil throughout the city, the departure of thousands of
British troops in trucks en-route to the waiting ships at the Kemari
harbor, the spontaneous jubilations in the streets, and the proud waving
of the new green flag with white crescent and star. I also remember
seeing the Hindu turban-clad traffic constables on the run, hurriedly
replaced with beret-wearing Muslim policemen.
Parsees/Zarathushtis under the British:
To fully understand how the lives of the
residents of Karachi were changed by the creation of a new nation, one
must understand their life under the British Raj, especially during its
final years. Part of that history is the crucial role that the tiny
Parsi/Zarathushti community played in the transition period. After 200
years of British autocratic colonial rule in the Indian sub-continent,
the British influence on the local culture and people was tremendous,
especially on the members of the small Parsi/Zarathushti community. Like
all communities, the Parsees/Zarathushtis in their minds believed that
the British liked them and favored them over members of other
communities like the Hindus, Muslims, Sikhs, and Goanese (Catholics of
Portuguese origin). The Parsees/Zarathushtis were one of the most
adaptive communities and their inherent love for education and social
progress brought them close to the British. Their passion for everything
western, their appetite for elements of western culture, and their
aptitude for ‘learning’ were insatiable. The British genuinely liked the
Parsees/Zarathushtis and respected them for their integrity, work
ethics, and charity. They trusted the Parsees/Zarathushtis, but always
had a hidden political and social agenda of divide and rule. One
thousand-plus civil servants are said to have ruled a nation of 400+
million people for over 200 years! The British considered the Parsees as
their loyal and non-threatening subjects, having modest ambitions and
few political aspirations.
The
Parsees/Zarathushtis learned to speak English with a British accent,
(and) dressed like the British in western clothing, and adopted British
mannerism. Although they enjoyed mostly their own Parsi food, they
digested it with drinks like beer, scotch and whiskey that were
introduced by the British. They worked hard like the British, adopted
western classical music as their own, celebrated their holidays and
festivities like Christmas, Easter, and Gregorian New Year and became
accomplished at playing their sports like cricket. Culturally and
socially some Parsees/Zarathushtis even considered themselves as distant
relatives of the British. The only thing on which the
Parsees/Zarathushtis did not compromise was the practice and worship of
their own religion and rituals!
Most Parsees/Zarathushtis took pride in being like the British (some
even called them local-foreigners) and many Parsees/Zarathushtis
considered the departure of the British from Karachi (India) as outright
betrayal. Many Parsees/Zarathushtis immigrated to England in the early
fifties to continue the legacy and affiliation. Many followed later, for
higher education and eventually settled down in England.
Parsees/Zarathushtis did enjoy a unique relationship with the ruling
British, especially when compared to Hindus and Muslims, for several
obvious reasons. Most Parsees/Zarathushtis did not have any restrictions
in eating meat, unlike the Hindus. Many Parsees/Zarathushtis did not
have any restrictions on drinking alcohol, unlike the Muslims.
Parsees/Zarathushtis did not have major concerns about socializing along
with their spouses, while most Muslims and many Hindus did not feel
comfortable in doing so. Parsees/Zarathushtis were champions in
educating both the sexes and therefore had an advantage over other
communities in academia, business, and industry. And,
Parsees/Zarathushtis fought side-by-side with the British during the
first and especially the second world wars in the middle-east including
places like Iraq and Iran and also in Italy and Burma. Three members
from my immediate family joined the British/Indian Armed Forces during
the Second World War. My mother joined the British/Indian Navy in the
Intelligence Dept. as a cipher operator. She was sent for training at
the Naval Academy in Bombay in the early 1940’s. With several
promotions, she left the Navy at the end of the war with the rank of
Chief Petty Officer (CPO). My uncle joined the British/Indian Army as a
soldier and was posted in Basra, Iraq. He managed the supply stores
including the army equipment. My cousin joined the British/Indian Army
as a nurse. Women in the army at that time were known as WACI (Women’s
Auxiliary Corp. India.) I can still picture them in uniform and “march
past” celebrations, and recall the heroic stories they told. I also
remember the pride I felt knowing that in some small way they were part
of the fight against tyranny, expansionism, and “military domination.”
The
intercommunity relations between the Hindus, Muslims, Sikhs, Goanese
(popularly known as Goans), and the Parsees/Zarathushtis were mostly
congenial, but there were always professional and social rivalries in
the background. The so-called “one-up-man-ship” was always evident
especially once a year, when the inter-religious rivalries were tested
on the cricket grounds of Hindu, Parsi, Muslim, and Goan communal
gymkhanas. The cricket tournaments became the battlegrounds of skill,
wit and humor. Although supposedly friendly and sportsmanship in nature,
it was far from friendly when passions ran high. Instant advices and
critical comments from the spectators became part of the cricket match.
The Parsees/Zarathushtis, Goans, Hindus, British, and the Muslims all
had strong contingents of well-known cricket players, and none of the
teams had any distinct advantage, which made the matches very
interesting. This made the religiously-segregated and ethnically-divided
sports teams fun to watch, and I recall the excitement of attending with
friends and family, cheering on players and teams. Parsees/Zarathushtis
in spite of their smallness in numbers always were the loudest in
applaud and vocal support.
Parsees/Zarathushtis had settled in large
numbers in Karachi for about 120 years prior to the independence of
India and the creation of Pakistan. The tiny community of about 5,000 at
the time of partition had established two schools (Bai Virbaiji
Soparivala High School – popularly know as BVS (estb.1859) and the Mama
Parsi Girls High School (estb.1918), Nadirshaw Edulji Dinshaw (N.E.D.)
Engineering College – (estb.1924), two fire temples (Atash Adaran,
consecrated 1869 & 1875 ), a tower-of-silence (Dokhma, estb.1847), a
sports gymkhana (the Karachi Parsi Institute, popularly called KPI,
estb.1893), community halls (Katrak and Jehangir Rajkotwalla Baughs)
where most of the navjotes, weddings, and Ghambars were regularly held,
several hospitals, clinics, and dispensaries owned and operated by
Parsees/Zarathushtis, a library, and a Ladies Association (Karachi
Zarathushti Banu Mandal – estb.1912) engaged in community service and
charitable activities. There were several well-established Parsi/Zarathushti
community housing complexes (colonies) built generally within the city
limits in addition to affluent bungalows in some of the best sections of
the city. The city of Karachi had several statues of prominent
Parsees/Zarathushtis industrialists and philanthropists in busy
thoroughfares recognizing the overall contributions of these individuals
to the civic life of the city of Karachi.
My
father Minochere Mehta worked as an accountant for 36 years at the Sind
Club. This exclusive members-only all-white residential club catered to
all the pampered needs of its selective British and few European
residents. This club was a bastion of English aristocracy and snobbery,
exemplary of the British Raj. Even as a young boy, I use to detest going
there. The first non-British / non-European “token honorary member” ever
admitted to the club was the governor-general and father of the newly
created nation of Pakistan – Mohammad Ali Jinnah.
On
aside note, Mohammad Ali Jinnah was born and educated in Karachi, then
Bombay, and later went on to London to study law at Lincoln’s Inn. He
had been a great admirer of Parsi/Zarathushti political leaders such as
Dadabhoy Naoroji and Sir Pherozeshah Mehta. When Dadabhoy Naoroji ran
for the English Parliament, Jinnah and other Indian students worked
tirelessly campaigning for him. Their efforts were successful and
Naoroji became the first Indian to sit in the House of Commons. Jinnah’s
second wife was Ratanbai Petit, a young lady twenty-three years his
junior and a member of the elite Parsi/Zarathushti Petit family of
Bombay. The day before her marriage, she converted to Islam and changed
her named to Mariam. She passed away in 1929 only 11 years later. The
marriage was never openly discussed and/or publicized in Pakistan.
Jinnah's sister Fatima was considered
the "mother" (Madr-e-Millat) of the nation. Fatima was very kind
and generous towards the Parsi/Zarathushti
community, but always behind the scenes and in private.
Parsee/Zarathushti Community Activities:
My early memories
of growing up in Karachi as a young boy and teenager are those of
attending school and college, participating in scouting and sports
activities, riding my bicycle to school and later motorcycle to other
locations throughout the city, going on outings to the Hawks Bay and
Sandspit (beaches), socializing with friends and family, attending
community events like Navjotes, weddings, and Ghambars and taking part
in citywide events. Ironically, I met my future wife Gool (Khambatta) at
a ‘square-dance’ session sponsored by USIS (United States Information
Service) in 1957.
Growing up, religious events were an important part of my life. For
example, during the ‘Muktad’ prayers including the last five days of
Gathas, we used to participate in the “hambandagi” prayers at the
community hall. Several hundred members of the community would sing the
hymns of Zarathushtra, the Gathas,
together, in the early hours of the morning followed by narrated
Gujarati translations by the choirmaster, after each couplet. This was
indeed a spiritual and tranquil experience. It is said (and I believe)
that a community that sings together, stays together in harmony. We had
similar experiences at the BVS School during the five holy days of the
month, with the Parsi/Zarathushti boys in the Assembly Hall, praying the
Atash-e-Niyayesh in front of the fire, led by religious leaders such as
Dastur Maneckji Dhalla and Ervad Godrej Sidhwa and Principal Behram
Rustomji and Vice-Principal Behram Minwalla. It was due to the efforts
of these Parsi stalwarts that religious education for Parsi/Zarathushti
boys and girls became part of the mandatory syllabus in college.
The Parsi/Zarathushti community always
looked forward to the annual visits by distinguished Dasturs/scholars
from Bombay, including Dastur Khurshed Dabu, M.A. and Dastur Dr.
Framroze Bode, Ph D. These and other Dasturs brought with them the
teachings of the prophet Zarathushtra and both in my opinion were far
ahead of their time, in teaching the real meaning of the scriptures. At
an impressionable age of 10+ years, listening to these giants of the
Zarathushti religion (including resident scholar Shams-Ul-Ulema, Dastur
Dr. Maneckji Dhalla, Ph D.) molded my knowledge and created an interest
in the true religion and message of Zarathushtra during my formative
years. This message of freedom in thinking, responsibility for one's
actions, making decisions based on facts, and helping fellow-human
beings are some of the things that I have continued to practice
throughout my life.
On the lighter side, the Karachi Parsi/Zarathushti
community was endowed with very talented stage actors and musicians.
They performed regular Parsi Nataks (drama skits) in entertaining and
self-deprecating humor. These talented Parsi/Zarathushti artists made
the whole community laugh together, often at themselves, some times
non-stop with live audience interactions as well. The annual Navroze
sports event on March 21 was a traditional field-sports event that
continues even today, where community members of all ages participated
and thoroughly enjoy the festivities. The Parsi/Zarathushti
dinner-dances, the Ghambars, the Nataks, the social functions, and of
course the Weddings and Navjotes brought the community together and
continue today, except now in smaller numbers and in four-star hotels
owned by Parsi/Zarathushtis rather than in the community hall. The
Ghambars had great significance to me in understanding important aspects
of charity and community brotherhood. A single wealthy family would pay
for all the food costs and services in feeding the members of the Parsi/Zarathushti
community, especially the school-aged children. What was remarkable to
me then and now, is that every one, regardless of their personal wealth
or social community status would be sitting side-by-side eating the same
meal, most using their hands. The traditional meal served on a large
banana leaf (substituting for ceramic plates) consisted of Dhan-Sak
(rice and vegetable/lentil dahl) and Kabab-Kachoombar (spicy meat balls
and shredded onion salad) was always delicious.
As a
drummer in my school marching band, on Navroze and Papeti days, I
remember visiting the Parsi/Zarathushti residential colonies and housing
areas in the wee hours of the morning to raise funds for various
charities. This was a fun event and the student band players of BVS
School always looked forward in participating. Getting up at 4 AM, we
were ready to play our tunes (British regimental marches) in the
darkness of the dawn. The marching band was well received by the housing
residents with smiling faces, shaking our hands, and patting our backs.
“Navroze Mubarak,” was the underlying facilitation. The residents gave
the ‘band-boys’ culinary delights and an exotic breakfast, generally
consisting of sweets (halwa and jalebi), freshly fried fish and
Bombay-ducks (bumla), sweet yogurt, rawa (cereal), sev (vermicelli),
milk, and of course generous cash donations. It was not surprising that
even community members of modest means opened their hearts and homes,
donating generously to charity. The motto “Parsi Thy Name Charity’ which
I heard and observed throughout my childhood, has its roots in these
poor and middle class community housings!
In addition to the charity that was
synonymous with the Parsi/Zarathushti community so was their reputation
of integrity and honesty. As mentioned earlier, the events leading to
the independence of India and creation of Pakistan included the massive
and rushed departure of thousands of Hindu and Sikh families, who had
lived in Karachi for generations. Many of the fleeing Hindu families
entrusted their homes, personal belongings, and businesses to Parsi/Zarathushtis
as interim caretakers and custodians. In my own apartment building
complex, several Hindu families hurriedly left their homes with
everything of value inside, handing over the house-keys and entrusting
my father and aunt. Members of the Hindu communities trusted Parsi/Zarathushtis
explicitly. I also remember when these same Hindu families returned to
Karachi a year or two later when the political situation became quieter
and safer, to settle their property and contents. They found their homes
and personal belongings, as they had left them - intact. This experience
was repeated throughout the city of Karachi with many other Parsi/Zarathushti
“caretaker” families. The trustworthy reputation of Parsees/Zarathushtis
displayed at that historic time during the birth of a new nation,
continues today, and has always been a source of pride for me.
The
Changes:
There were many changes that I lived
through, especially during the initial years of the new nation. The once
sparsely populated and clean streets of Karachi became congested and
dirty. ‘Pak Sarzamin Shad Bad’ replaced the often-heard anthem of ‘God
Save the King,’ and the new green flag with white crescent and star was
flown in movie houses and government buildings, instead of the familiar
Union Jack. The statues of British Kings (George and Edward) and Queen
(Victoria – Empress of India) were conveniently removed from city
centers. And the streets named after British monarchs, commisioners, and
military leaders like Victoria, Elphinston, Napier, Burns, Denso, Frere,
Marston, Mansfield, Meriweather, Mcleod, and Preedy were changed to
names of Muslim leaders and Islamic words, many of Persian origins. In
the very beginning, the old British-India currency notes and postage
stamps remained in use, with the name “PAKISTAN” printed-over or
embossed on these legal monetary instruments.
Auto-rickshaws gradually replaced horse-driven buggies (popularly called
Victoria) on streets of Karachi. The new nation had a daunting task -
not only to get rid of 200 years of British influence on local culture
and on people’s lives, but also removing the depictions of everything
Hindu and Indian. However, the reminisces of the British judiciary
(wig-wearing barristers and solicitors), the armed forces (handle-bar
moustaches and bag-pipes), the police (solar hats, short-pants, and
wooden staves), the St. John’s ambulance brigade (with many Parsi/Zarathushti
volunteers), the parliamentary system (provincial and national
assemblies with blueprints for the failure of democracy), the
governmental bureaucracy (rubber-stamps, triplicates, stamp duty, and
thriving corruption) all remained evident in one form or other.
As a
coastal city, Karachi had been known for its beautiful clean beaches,
well-kept buildings with Victorian Gothic architecture, bazaars filled
with gold and silver jewelry, exotic spices, silk saris, camel carts,
and snake charmers. With the creation of Pakistan, Karachi became a city
of kababs and parathas, sprawling shanty towns, artfully copied
hand-woven Persian carpets, gaudily decorated trucks and buses, curbside
dentists and fortune tellers, and a kaleidoscope of paan eating/paan
spitting ethnically diverse millions. Karachi became a city of
immigrants and an instant metropolitan mega city. Less than 5% of the
City’s population can claim having roots in Karachi, and
Parsees/Zarathushtis have become one of the oldest residents.
In my
own school, I saw immediate and sad departures of my Hindu sari-clad and
dhoti-wearing teachers and the arrival of Urdu speaking, sherwani-clad,
paan-eating Muslim teachers. The language of Urdu replaced the Gujarati
textbooks. The once predominately Parsi Boy’s School, in less than two
years after the partition became a predominately Muslim boys school. My
history class for the first time taught about the life and times of
Prophet Muhammad, Quran, the battle of Kerbala, Ramazan (Ramadan),
Mohram, and about the holy places of Mecca and Medina. World history and
especially European history, took a backseat!
At the school, one of the biggest social and
emotional blows felt by the Parsi/Zarathushti students at BVS was in the
game of cricket. The once ALL PARSI cricket team (the winners of the
coveted Ruby Shield trophy, in interschool cricket championship for
decades) had just one Parsee boy left on the team, by the time I left
the school, exactly 50 years ago this year - 2006) The Muslim players
were superior cricketers and became tough competitors in sports as well
as in academia. Although the school is still owned and operated by
Parsees and has many Parsi teachers, the Parsi student body is less than
10%. All the students of the school had been previously divided into
three ‘houses’ for scholastic and healthy sports competitiveness
purposes. These houses were named after illustrious persons and/or
families: Sir Lancelot Graham, Reza Shah Pahlavi, and Soparivala
(founder-family). With the influx of Muslim boys into the school
population, a new house was added, called Quaid-e-Azam house, named
after the founder/father of Pakistan. The BVS Parsi School facilities
also become the temporary sanctuary of statues of prominent Hindus like
Mohandas Gandhi, which had been removed from the city centers.
I used
to regularly visit the Parsi/Zarathushti Agiary (Atash Adaran), located
in the heart of old Karachi, in the congested area of Saddar. This was
an area which once had many Zarathushti/Irani tea shops on many
crossroads but now consists of hundreds of small vendor shops selling
everything imaginable, connected by narrow and crowded streets, filled
with noisy hawkers, chaotic traffic, and children begging for alms. In
the center of it all is a majestic structure of stone and bricks with
Persepolis-Susa type architecture with winged-bull columns, stained
glass, and marble floorings. Consecrated in 1849, this remarkable
sanctuary, set in the middle of chaotic hustle and bustle, has become a
landmark of peace and tranquility for the thousands that pass by it
daily.
Irani
Zarathushtis immigrants mainly from Yazd and Kerman started settling
down in Karachi at the end of the nineteenth century. Jehangir Rustom is
known to be one of the pioneers in setting up Irani tea shops in the
Saddar area, in the heart of the old Karachi. The famous Jehangir
restaurant owners have been known to have helped many later Irani
Zarathushti immigrants in the tea shop businesses and in settling down
in Karachi.
My
family used to take annual summer trips from Karachi to Bombay by train
to visit my grandparents and the childhood home of my father. The
journey took almost four days. After the creation of Pakistan, travel
became more difficult as we now needed to obtain passports and visas as
well as undergo “border crossings” at Lahore.
Other
changes included the introduction of the public celebrations of
‘Eid
ul Fitur',
the fasting month of Ramazan, the mourning during Mohram and Ashura, all
replacing Diwali, Christmas, midnight mass, poppy day, Easter, and
Boxing Day. From eating mince pies, hot-cross buns and plum puddings, we
gradually acquired the taste for
halwa,
tandoori, mughlai palao, parathas, biryani, and nihari. Parsees had been
exposed to 200 years of everything British and now everything was
gradually becoming Pakistani. Some Parsi women gradually started wearing
shalwar khamiz and dupata. Some men too, started wearing sherwani and
shalwars. As a boy scout in school in the early fifties, my scout
uniform included a black ‘Jinnah’ cap, named after and made famous by
the founder of Pakistan.
Each
year on the death anniversary of Quaid-e-Azam or Great Leader, as a boy
scout in school, I participated in the processional parade to his
mausoleum (mazar). It is ironic that Jinnah, who fought the British his
entire life for the “independence” (swaraj or self-rule) and for the
creation of a Muslim nation, died within 13 months of the creation of
Pakistan.
A few
of the unique events that the Parsees witnessed first-hand immediately
after the partition were the citywide slaughter of lambs and cows,
during the Eid-ul-Fitur celebration. Some Muslim neighbors began to send
a ‘leg-of-lamb’ to their Parsi/Zarathushti friends on Eid, which in the
beginning years caused some dismay and disbelief, but eventually the
Parsee/Zarathushtis got accustomed to and anticipated the neighborly
gifts! The Ashura celebrations were always chaotic as the Shia (Shi’ite)
and Sunni groups, invariably fought openly in the streets of Karachi. As
part of the celebrations, special arrangements were required from the
Karachi Electric Supply Company, to raise the street electric wires, so
that the tall taziyas (wood-made mosque-type dome floats on wheels) were
able to pass under the electric wires. It was on this day that the
emotional and physical displays of self-inflicted blows by the Shia male
mourners on their chests and backs, resulting in bloodshed, produced
high drama and uncontrollable emotions. Each year during these
celebrations, dozens of mourners were killed and hundreds injured. Many
Parsees/Zarathushtis would leave the city limits to find sanctuary at
the many fine beaches surrounding Karachi in search of tranquility.
Others were obliged to witness in dismay the procession of mourners and
their self-inflicted pain and suffering.
The
cultural life of individuals living in Karachi at the time of creation
of Pakistan gradually began to change too. Our TV screens, for those who
could afford them, started showing classical plays in Urdu and our
radios started broadcasting qawwali and ghazal songs. No matter where
you lived in Karachi, the newly constructed mosques were only a short
distance away. The loud early-morning call for prayers, broadcasted over
loud speakers became daily part of the Parsi/Zarathushti lives. This
call-for-prayers (the aazan) to the devoted ironically became a reminder
for some Parsees to get up and pray to Ahura Mazda in the sanctuary of
their homes. The movie houses too, had been a regular pastime of many
Parsees and Goans. Soon after Pakistan came into existence, the popular
American and British films we used to watch, (sometimes even two films
in one day), were gradually replaced by action dramas/hero films,
Pakistani films, and pirated Hindi movies. During the times of the
British rule, the movie houses had four to five different ticket prices
for the same movie and for the same show time. This was the typical
epitome of the English class-system. The front row seats were the
cheapest and the rear house seats were comparatively pricey with
individual seat reservations. Many cinema houses also had individual
boxes (opera type rooms) for families, generally catering to the
British.
With
the departure of the British, a vacuum was created in this sensitive
geo-political part of the world that was willingly filled within a short
period of time by the massive US AID program to Pakistan. With American
dollars came American businesses, like banks, insurance and oil
companies, cultural and educational institutions, hospitals, the largest
embassy staff, and so on. Parsees/Zarathushtis jumped at the opportunity
to enroll in these American organizations and institutions and many
became professional staff members and managers. The Parsi/Zarathushti
community members once again found their “old cousins once removed” in
the friendly Americans. Unlike the British, the Americans were more
inclusive and saw the Parsees/Zarathushtis as westernized, free
spirited, entrepreneurial, and with a passion for American education and
culture. Many Parsees/Zarathushtis started driving the big American cars
(left-hand-drive) on right-hand drive roads, adopted American pop music
as their own, and became big fans of American movies and Hollywood
celebrities. In the mid-fifties, my future wife, Gool Khambatta and
dozens of other recently high school graduated Parsi/Zarathushti boys
and girls went to America on a cultural exchange program, sponsored by
the American Field Service (AFS). They enrolled as high school seniors
in schools around the U.S. and lived with an American family for a
period of one year. A majority of these one-time Parsi/Zarathushti
students from Karachi now live and work in United States.
Parsee/Zarathushti Community Leaders:
As a young boy, besides the American
movie stars that we all idolized, I cannot underestimate the impact of
Parsi/Zarathushti community icons: school principals Maneck Pithawalla,
Behram Rustomji and Deena Mistri,
high priest Dastur Maneckji Dhalla, three-term Mayor of Karachi Jamshed
Nusserwanji Mehta, maker of modern Karachi, social worker/humanitarians,
Khan Bahadur Sheriar Contractor, Sohrab Katrak, and social
worker/theosophist Gool Minwalla. These visionary leaders played a
crucial role in directing and transitioning the Parsi/Zarathushti
community, during the early days of creation of Pakistan. They opened
the community schools to accommodate the influx of Muslim students. They
stood firm on the rights of the Parsi/Zarathushti community and as a
religious minority.
The
community leadership of Parsees/Zarathushtis of Karachi displayed
phenomenal resilience in quickly adapting to the impending change in
political and religious ownership and structure of the country and
pledged its alliance to the new rulers of the country, while keeping its
independence in worship, service to its community, and in protection of
its property and the community’s assets.
The
old Karachi Parsi/Zarathushti community strong-hold areas included the
Rustom and Edulji Dinshaw Chawls, the Preddy Street and Saddar areas,
Khurshedbai Chawl and Tari-no-Gutto, Parsi Colony, Gari Khatta/Chowk
area and Panchayat Wadi. Overwhelmingly, Parsi community members lived
in these localities, essentially walking distance of each another. This
is where most Parsees/Zarathushtis lived, studied, worked, raised
families, prayed, and eventually died.
As the
nation of Pakistan progressed, new community leaders and business
entrepreneurs began to emerge. Among them were Cyrus Minwalla and
Dinshaw Avari as hoteliers, who prospered during the formative years of
the nation. Today, their legacy and business continues, with their sons.
Cyrus Minwalla and Dinshaw Avari were truly men of vision who made sure
that no Parsi-owned land, property or businesses were randomly
taken-over by the newly formed, property-grabbing governmental
machinery. The Zarathushti Anjuman-owned land surrounding the
tower-of-silence, once considered sacred and located on the outskirts of
the city, gradually became part of the growing metropolis, due to the
expansions of the city limits in accommodating the influx of significant
refugee populations. (During the initial months after the creation of
Pakistan, It is widely believed that some Parsi/Zarathushti properties
in the city of Karachi were the target of influential politicians. When
Governor-General Mohammad Ali Jinnah was made aware that, he quickly put
an end to this land and property grabbing.) The vision of growth for
Karachi by these entrepreneurs and community leaders became the vision
of growth for Parsi/Zarathushti community housing. Their vision in
building two large upscale housing complexes (named after them – the
Cyrus and Avari Colonies) on this vast Anjuman-owned land became modern
homes for 300+ Parsi community members in a safe and secure
environment.
The
Parsees/Zarathushtis of Karachi are indeed a unique community. Every one
in the community is looked after by the community social workers,
leaders, and well established institutions. This is done when the
privileged have used their resources to provide for the poor and
unfortunate. This is a community which has 100% literacy rate and an
average Parsi/Zarathushti is known to live in late eighties to
mid-nineties. Most of elderly in the community are taken care of by
their own family members. Such are the entrenched family values and
sense of responsibilities. They have come a long way in maintaining
their identities and demonstrating their ongoing values of truthfulness
and charity, and in helping their fellow citizens. They continue to be
known for their honesty, hard work ethic, and abundant philanthropy.
Karachi Parsees/Zarathushtis are mostly affluent and are engaged in
professional careers and small business ownership. The Parsi/Zarathushti
community institutions remain active in helping those within the
community as well as those outside the community (i.e. the Spencer Eye
Clinic) that need assistance. The Parsi/Zarathushti community in Karachi
today in 2006 is estimated to be about 1,900 individuals, much less than
half in size from the time of the departure of the British some sixty
years ago. The reduced population is mainly due to emigrations and low
procreations. Parsees/Zarathushtis continue to live freely and enjoy the
benefits accorded to all citizenry. The contributions made by the
Parsees/Zarathushtis in the city of Karachi, far exceed their miniscule
numbers. In a country where 99% of the population is Muslim, the
Parsees/Zarathushtis continue to command well-deserved respect and the
admiration of the ruling Muslims and are considered exemplary citizens.
My
Karachi:
Although I left
Karachi at the young age of 25 and witnessed only about a decade and a
half of life in Karachi after the creation of Pakistan, I personally and
professionally saw and/or faced no discrimination due to my being a
Parsi/Zarathushti. As a student at the Sind Government College of
Commerce and Economics, where more than 99% of the student-body as well
as the faculty were Muslims, the Parsi/Zarathushti students were always
respected and identified as progressive and enterprising. I became the
Swimming Captain of my college varsity team as well as member of
inter-varsity Table Tennis team. At work as an auditor, I was entrusted
with high-visibility governmental and private corporations audit
engagements in a Muslim owned Accounting & Auditing firm. These
corporations and projects included the audit of PIA, Pakistan Shipyard,
PIDC, Zeal Pak Cement, OGDC, and many other private and publicly funded
corporations. As a high-profile CFO of a major American offshore oil
drilling operations (first of its kind in Pakistan), I worked well with
workers and staff consisting of many nationalities. Professionally, I
became a Pakistani first and a Parsee/Zarathushti second. In my heart, I
was an Indian first and a Parsi/Zarathushti second. Socially, I was a
Parsi/Zarathushti first and a Pakistani second. Spiritually, I always
thought of myself as a Zarathushti first, second, and third!
In my
heart, I will always remain a Karachiite. I dream of Karachi every day
of my life – the Karachi I left behind, some 40+ years ago. Although I
have visited Karachi over the years, the Karachi I will always remember
is the city I rode my bicycle to and from school and later traveled
around on motorcycle with my future wife Gool sitting behind me; the
Karachi where most places were walking distances or a bicycle ride away
and the community hall (at Jehangir Baugh) was the center of
celebrations and enjoyment; the Karachi, where I took a tram (trolley)
to work and at times stood on its sideboard, barely clinging on with one
hand; the Karachi where I grew up eating culinary delights from the
street-side hawkers, the delicacies of ice-cold kulfi (cardamom-flavored
creamy ice cream),
freshly-made hot jalebees (crisp coils of fried batter in syrup),
freshly-fried bhajia (vegetable fritters), and delicious falooda (rose
syrup milk shake); the Karachi, where life without regular visits to
cinema houses and daily visits to the beloved KPI sports gymkhana for a
quick session of contract-bridge or a game of billiards would be
considered dull; and finally the Karachi, which made me what I am today
– a proud Karachiite and a proud Parsi/Zarathushti.
[i]
This article was posted on vohuman.org on June 17, 2006. The
author acknowledges the following individuals for providing some
of the photos posted in connection with this article:
Sunnu
Golwalla of Karachi
Afshad
Mistri of California
Rumi
Sarkari of Dubai
Fali
Engineer of Houston
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